Social media warned me about all the legwork I’d have to do while exploring Lisbon, but what it didn’t mention was that I’d need the exercise to burn off all the happy calories I’d be consuming there. My recent trip to Lisbon was an appetising adventure – from postcard-perfect vistas and flavourful bite-sized petiscos (bite-sized snacks) to an endless supply of pastéis de nata (custard tarts), which made the 20,000 daily step count worth it.
Portugal’s capital city has a rich history and diverse culinary scene, and taking it all in on a short trip can be overwhelming. To avoid that, I opted for a guided tour with Oh! My Cod Tours. Over the course of four hours, I not only explored some of the city’s oldest historical neighbourhoods – such as Mouraria (Moorish Quarter) – but also visited hidden gastronomic gems.
Bolo de arroz
Sardinha doce (sweet sardine) is a conventual dessert made with almonds, egg yolks and sugar at Casa São Miguel
Cantinho do Aziz in Mouraria whips up hearty Mozambican dishes such as massamba (a traditional veggie curry with bean stew and coconut rice), while you can soak in the ambience of a traditional Portuguese tasca (tavern) at O Trigueirinho while you wait for bacalhau, the country’s famous cod dish. For bites to share with friends, head to A Muralha in Alfama and order the sheep’s cheese with home-made tomato jam.
Always leave room for dessert – especially for Portuguese desserts. Pastel de nata might be at the top of your sweet treats list, but there’s so much more to discover. Located in the Alfama district, Casa São Miguel is the perfect spot to satisfy sugary cravings. The café’s pastel colour scheme and quirky tchotchkes made me feel like I was stepping onto the set of a Wes Anderson film. It houses a wide selection of regional pastries – most of which are conventual desserts. Yes, you read that correctly. These treats were invented by nuns and monks in Portuguese convents as far back as the 15th century, and a single recipe could contain up to 30 egg yolks.
For a taste of royalty, head to Confeitaria Nacional, which once held the title of official confectioner to the Portuguese royal family. The vintage interiors – with a mirrored ceiling, marble countertop and glass display cases, filled with handmade products – transport you back in time. Order a bolo de arroz (Portuguese rice muffin) or tarte de amêndoa (almond tart) with a coffee – a combination that’s especially popular with locals.
Queijadas and travesseiros are two more Portuguese staples you’ll find in multiple bakeries across Lisbon. These pastries originated in the nearby town of Sintra.
Portugal’s icon pastry pastéis de nata
The bakers behind the delicious confections at Confeitaria Nacional
If you can’t make it to Sintra, however, Recordação de Sintra at Time Out Market Lisboa is a great alternative to get a taste of that town’s specialities. Dating back over 130 years, this family-owned traditional Portuguese bakery produces handmade baked goods such as nozes douradas (caramelised egg yolk with walnut) and sonhos (fried dough with sugar and cinnamon).
Not only is Time Out Market bustling with a well curated selection of the city’s best food and drinks, it also transforms into a dance floor on certain nights and any one can join the party. I danced the night away with many new friends.
Of course, I couldn’t leave the birthplace of pastéis de nata without eating a few. There’s no dearth of shops selling these golden custard tarts across the city. Pastéis de Belém claims to have invented pastéis de nata in 1837 based on an ancient recipe. Meanwhile, Manteigaria’s open kitchen concept is great for watching its bakers in action as they make this iconic flaky pastry from scratch, including their not-so-secret swap of margarine with butter, which gives each tart an even richer texture and flavour.
If you can’t get enough of this Portuguese favourite, try its gelato counterpart from Gelato Davvero. It’s the perfect antidote for a warm, sunny day out.
Having eaten my way across the city over the course of three days, I can vouch for the fact that Portuguese desserts are some of the best I’ve ever eaten and they’re a joyful reminder that life is, indeed, sweet.
MAGICAL SINTRA
Less than an hour’s train ride away from Lisbon, the fairytale town of Sintra is well worth a visit. Surrounded by lush greenery and majestic castles, this day trip is guaranteed to be filled with memorable moments. A must-see is the Quinta da Regaleira, a manor house built in the early 1900s and now a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss the 27-metre-deep initiation well on the property.
No trip to Sintra is complete without a stop at Casa Piriquita. This historic pastry shop, dating from 1862, is nestled in the heart of the town and is famous for its ‘pillows’ or travesseiros de Sintra. These unassuming pastries may look simple but hide a decadent filling made with eggs, almond cream and one secret ingredient. A bite of this cloud-like pastry combined with its melt-in-your-mouth velvety filling is the perfect delectable ending to a magical day.
