When stars evolve

When stars evolve

الطعام – 04.11.25

We taste the latest creations from restaurants recognised by MICHELIN, where new menus are pushing boundaries while honouring their heritage

Devina Divecha
Devina Divecha
الكاتب
11 Woodfire’s Brando Moros
11 Woodfire’s Brando Moros

At one MICHELIN-starred 11 Woodfire, fire remains the soul of the kitchen – but under the helm of Colombian chef Brando Moros, it has taken on new depth and direction. An example of this can be seen with the burnt sourdough and caviar – a starter – which is inspired by taramasalata and is also part of the kitchen’s commitment to waste reduction. Leftover sourdough is transformed into an ice cream, served with French toast, topped with black garlic powder, bacon jam and caviar. It’s a dish that shouldn’t work. But how it does. The burrata reimagines a classic – the cheese is smoked and paired with Colombian tomatoes, mint vinaigrette, 14-year aged balsamic, grilled grapes and Wagyu bresaola. The black ribs, glazed with black garlic and topped with gorgonzola foam, are sweet and smoky, while the smoked woodfire chicken is bold, coated in nduja butter and sambal, with a hint of gochujang. Try the frozen garden for dessert, it features five ice creams and five sorbets inspired by the fruits of South America.

The ‘Onion’ course at avatara
The ‘Onion’ course at avatara

The world’s first MICHELIN-starred Indian vegetarian restaurant avatara has entered a new phase under new head chef Omkar Walve (also a MICHELIN Young Chef award winner). The new 17-course tasting menu introduces garlic, onion and mushrooms for the first time, where only a few dishes have been retained from its previous avatar (pun not intended). The flower-inspired opening sets the tone, with flavours that are familiar and nostalgic, yet showcasing the elegance of a restaurant with one star. While it’s hard to fault any of the 17 dishes, one of our favourites include the simply named ‘asparagus’, where a singju salad from Manipur sits atop chargrilled asparagus, pea protein kababs and bamboo shoots. One of my favourite desserts, the bal mithai, continues to hold a spot on the new menu. What defines Walve’s approach is harmony – every plate feels cohesive. The non-alcoholic pairing menu also deserves a mention; every beverage is concocted in-house, with the ingredients chosen carefully to complement the courses. It all makes for a well-rounded experience.

The stunning oyster & vanilla course at La Mar by Gastón Acuri
The stunning oyster & vanilla course at La Mar by Gastón Acuri

At MICHELIN-Selected La Mar by Gastón Acurio, a 14-course tasting menu titled The Journey launched at the end of October 2025. Curated by chef de cuisine Andrée Nuñez, the menu is a love letter to his home country’s history, heritage and culture. Every course has uniquely Peruvian ingredients you’re unlikely to find elsewhere – unless you were in the Latin American country yourself. The courses are light yet filling, with interesting twists. The ‘oyster & vanilla’ course features an oyster topped with vanilla and caviar, as well as a Hokkaido scallop coated in pistachio leche de tigre – not a combination you’d expect. Here, the nutty richness of the pistachio serves to amplify the briny depth of the seafood. Japanese, Italian and Chinese influences on Peruvian cuisine are explored in the menu; I must mention the revelation of Peru’s Chifa tradition, inspired by Chinese influences. The ‘short rib’ course features inverted chaufa rice, which is caramelised, sticky and crunchy – pairing perfectly with the tender meat. Throughout the meal, Nuñez is on hand to talk about provenance, history and more, making you feel as though you’re spending a cosy evening with him at his dining table. Click to read about the original La Mar in Lima.