Cookbook author and TV chef Zahra Abdalla shares memories of her childhood in Sudan
Growing up in Sudan, I was always surrounded by family, friends and lots of love. We were a tight-knit community, who took care of each other, celebrated together and mourned together. And during all our interactions, food played an important role.
The Sudanese kitchen is rich, flavourful and untapped. I think that unless you know someone from there and have eaten in their home, there is really very little access or opportunity to experience traditional dishes outside of Sudan. It is on my wish list to travel back there and re-discover, explore and share the varied flavours and culinary customs of its communities.
The country is home to approximately 600 tribes, who speak over 400 different languages and dialects. And this diversity can be seen in the culinary offering. But for now, I only have my fond childhood memories of wonderful flavours to share.
As a child, I loved the lively energy and festivities surrounding Sudanese weddings. These week-long events brought distant and close family members together to celebrate henna parties, religious ceremonies and receptions. It was customary for the bride to perform the ‘sobheya’ or bridal dance, which was followed by the jirtik – a series of playful rituals where grandmothers and mothers of the bride and groom would typically adorn the couple’s faces with spices, and the couple would take part in a milk spitting contest. It’s believed that the first one who hit the other’s face would likely be the ‘boss’ of the family.
The food at Sudanese weddings was always an important part of the celebrations. Families would prepare shaya (grilled lamb or goat that was slaughtered in honour of the festivities) and serve this with salatat dakwa (peanut salad) and salatat aswaad (aubergine salad).
I remember how the aromas of the shaya on the barbecue were delicious and inviting; my nose would always lead me to the food. I’d wrap the shaya in a piece of bread, dip it into some peanut salad and eat this with jirjir (rocket leaves) on the side.
As the weather starts to cool down in the UAE, I am going to start preparing al fresco dining experiences for my family to enjoy. Every so often, I like to do a traditional Sudanese barbecue as these recipes are filled with nostalgic memories of my childhood and they offer my children a glimpse of the wonderful flavours that I grew up with.
I am excited to share this trio of recipes with you – they were taught to me by Aunty Lula, a family friend who has a magical touch in the kitchen and was always able to serve a delicious feast with no effort at all. I hope you try them and enjoy them as much as I do. And don’t forget to have some bread on the side!
