A taste of the Emirates

A taste of the Emirates

Food – 20.03.24

Chef Ionel Catau is committed to sustainability and flavour while honouring Emirati culture and traditions at Gerbou

Devina Divecha
Devina Divecha
Author

Being able to taste Emirati food was previously the good fortune of those invited into the privacy of homes or finding hidden gems across the country, but over the last decade, there has been a dedicated commitment to understanding more about the cuisine of the country. A project which aims to celebrate Emirati culture, tradition and flavours is Gerbou, and ahead of its opening at Tashkeel in Nad Al Sheba, in April 2024, it has appeared on Dubai’s food scene as a supper club to offer a sneak peek into what to expect from the restaurant. The concept is a collaboration between Atelier House Hospitality and Tashkeel, and will be headed by chef Ionel Catau, with dessert and breads created by chef Sahar Parham.

This marks Ionel’s first foray in the UAE and his exploration of the country’s cuisine and culture was filled with inspiration aplenty, with the culinary landscape of the region allowing the head chef to pay homage to its heritage and flavours. Originally from Romania, Ionel has gained culinary experience across many world-class restaurants including those with Michelin stars to their name, such as Pensons, Hambleton Hall and Raby Hunt, among others. He knew, however, that a special opportunity had come along with Gerbou. Ionel says, “I remember my first interview [with the Gerbou team] and I knew in that moment that I really wanted this. And this is a place I could see myself in for years to come.”

Tiger prawn with za’atar verde │ Charred local cabbage with labneh │ Labneh with ghaf honey
Tiger prawn with za’atar verde │ Charred local cabbage with labneh │ Labneh with ghaf honey
Tiger prawn with za’atar verde │ Charred local cabbage with labneh │ Labneh with ghaf honey
Tiger prawn with za’atar verde │ Charred local cabbage with labneh │ Labneh with ghaf honey

Even though this is Ionel’s inaugural brush with Emirati cuisine, it’s clear to see how passionate he is about the food. He says, “Gerbou means ‘welcome to our humble abode’ in Arabic, and to me it means exactly that. We want to welcome our guests and send them on a journey through the finest ingredients found here in the UAE. And we also need to understand that it’s a melting pot of cultures and influences; so we take inspiration not only from Emirati culture, but also from our relationship with different areas of the Arabian Peninsula and internationally.”

Talking about food, the menu blends traditional Emirati dishes with global influences, and includes dishes like chicken machboos to tiger prawn with za’atar verde, charred local cabbage with labneh, baba ghanoush with curry leaf oil, labneh with ghaf honey and much more – and every dish tells a story. Ionel notes that the chicken machboos holds a very special place in his heart. “Not only is it a beloved dish here,” says Ionel, “but it’s in every household. It’s also very special because it was one of the dishes I did on my trial.”

He continues, “We try to use farm-to-table as much as possible, and throughout the menu, we try to minimise wastage. We always question, ‘what else can I do with this?’ We try to source as much as we can from local suppliers, not just with food but even the interior design and artwork.” An important element of Gerbou’s philosophy that is very evident, is its commitment to sustainability and community engagement. “Where we can, we showcase local artisans, suppliers and producers as much as we can – from the beautiful table made with parts of date trees, to the biodegradable chandelier, to the plants we have in the garden, and to the plates that are made here in the UAE. This matters to us… farm-to-table, sustainability, tradition.”

Local ingredients like this cabbage feature heavily on the menu │ Paneer pakora  with cherry salad
Local ingredients like this cabbage feature heavily on the menu │ Paneer pakora  with cherry salad
Local ingredients like this cabbage feature heavily on the menu │ Paneer pakora with cherry salad

Ionel reveals more about what to expect when the restaurant – which will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner – opens at Tashkeel. From a gelato room (with everything made in-house) through to a fire pit and barbecue area within the expansive outdoor facilities, the opportunities to immerse in the experience are aplenty. “We have some incredible gardens with native flowers, plants and trees – including many ghaf trees, for example,” Ionel adds. “We are also very fortunate that we will do everything in-house – from pastries and sauces to dressings and our own fermentations. I do want to keep a level of secrecy, but just like with the supper club, every detail will matter at the restaurant.” He continues, “We want to be the kind of restaurant people want to come back to time and again. Another thing this restaurant will do is highlight Emirati food and traditions; they are very special and it would be amazing to spotlight them further.”

Looking ahead, Ionel envisions Gerbou as more than just a restaurant; rather, his aim for it is to be a hub where guests can immerse themselves in the essence of the UAE. He adds, “This is something that we all believe in; the UAE has an incredible larder of not only ingredients, but of artists. I was truly blown away when I first came here and still, every single day, I think, ‘Dubai, you don’t fail to surprise me.’ You always discover something new here.”

Listen to our podcast interview with chef Ionel Catau where we talk about Gerbou’s concept in detail:

Episode 30: The finest things the UAE has to offer, with chef Ionel Catau