Arriving at Cape Town’s famous Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel, feels like stepping onto a Wes Anderson set… the palm-lined drive framed by stately columns, the blush façade glowing against Table Mountain.
Painted in 1918 at the end of the First World War as a symbol of peace, the colour – now immortalised as “Mount Nelson Pink” in the Pantone charts – was chosen to lift spirits, a warm, joyful hue said to inspire happiness and optimism. It’s everywhere here: from welcome macarons to candy-striped pool towels, the pink lens cleaner slipped under your reading glasses, even ribbons neatly tied around your charger cords by housekeeping.
The Nellie, as she’s so fondly called, sits on a nine-acre estate holding 198 rooms, including rose-garden “cottages” with suites, all blending Georgian elegance with contemporary African art. She may be 126 years old, but this grande dame has an appetite for reinvention – and that certainly extends to her menus.
For my stay, Emirates Holidays – one of the few to count her among their most prestigious Cape partners – handled every detail, from my suite to my dining plans, leaving me only one job: to turn up hungry and eat, from the first oyster at breakfast to the last mischievous fortune cookie at night.
Neoclassical columns marking the grand entrance; afternoon tea delights by pastry chef Vicky Gurovich
Afternoon tea delights by pastry chef Vicky Gurovich
START THE DAY IN STYLE
At Oasis, I found the sort of breakfast buffet that restores faith in the genre. It’s an abundant spread that could take at least 15 minutes just to explore: platters of jewel-bright fruit, jars of granola, charcuterie, local and imported cheeses, smoked salmon, pickled fish and baskets of baked goods from what could almost be a “bread wing”. There’s a bagel bar, naturally – and, in true Nellie style, an abundance of oysters with all accoutrements, for those who believe morning indulgence should sparkle.
As executive chef Luke Barry puts it, “We want guests to taste South Africa from the moment they sit down – those oysters from Saldanha Bay, vegetables from our own garden and Meuse Farm just 20 minutes away, and cheeses from local producers who care as much as we do.”
An egg chef stands ready to whip up omelettes, eggs Benedict, Royale or Florentine or the vegan tofu scramble with avocado toasted sprouted bread. There’s brioche French toast, kippers, juices, smoothies and mimosas if you’re so inclined. Sustainably sourced Ugandan coffee and rooibos cappuccinos arrive just how you like them.
Breakfast here also comes with stories. Linger a while and peruse the back of the menu, where snippets of the hotel’s illustrious past unfold: palms planted for the Prince of Wales in 1925, the Dalai Lama addressing a ballroom in 1999, John Lennon meditating in the gardens, Churchill plotting his wartime dispatches. It’s history served alongside your morning cuppa.
Pink-hued macarons
Poolside cabanas shaded by fringed umbrellas
TIME FOR TEA
The Mount Nelson is the only place in Cape Town worth booking for afternoon tea – and everyone knows it. The setting hums with families marking milestones, friends reuniting and the quiet clink of fine china, or a coupe of Cap Classique. This is no ordinary indulgence – it’s a city institution. Introduced in 1989, the service draws on over a century of the hotel’s history. Today, under the guidance of tea sommelier Craig Cupido and pastry chef Vicky Gurovich, it remains a masterclass in ceremony and flavour. “Whether it’s the buchu in your cup or the biltong in your scone, we want every guest to experience the taste of South Africa,” adds chef Luke.
Step inside and it’s like slipping into a painting. The plush, polished lounge shimmers under sparkling chandeliers, with a pianist playing softly on the grand piano. Alternatively, choose the airy verandah, where the mood lightens: black-and-white chequered floors, wicker chairs and cascades of lush greenery from hanging baskets. Softly patterned cushions and sweeping garden views lend the feel of an elegant conservatory.
Crisp prawn toast with glossy red pepper sweet chilli sauce at The Red Room
Mount Nelson’s iconic wrought-iron spiral staircase
If you’re lucky, you’ll have Cheslyn as your guide – warm, unhurried and brimming with character – leading you through the 60-strong selection of loose-leaf and flowering teas. From the signature Mount Nelson 125 Year Blend – a rooibos, honeybush, mesquite and apple medley – to a brilliant blood orange brew, each cup showcases global tea traditions, with South African favourites taking pride of place. Or, as chef Luke says: “Our tea programme is something we’re proud of – it’s a journey, not just a drink.”
The savoury menu is as artful as the setting: a quartet of lentil soup; smoked snoek pâté on rice crackers; mushroom pie; and devilled egg with paprika and kale, followed by delicate sandwiches – Franschhoek salmon with fennel cream cheese; cucumber with cream cheese; Karoo beef with mustard seeds; and free-range chicken mayonnaise. Then, those warm scones arrive; biltong renditions indeed adding a distinctly local flair.
The sweet tier is a dreamscape: passionfruit and hazelnut délice; blood orange and raspberry tart; pumpkin and salted caramel choux; Earl Grey and blueberry mousse; feather-light tiramisu; and a ”Hertzoggie”. And just when you think it’s over, the cake table calls – laden with baked cheesecake, hazelnut and coffee tart, Valrhona dark chocolate roulade, and vanilla and lemon cake, each slice as irresistible as the last.
Poolside sun protection, Emirates Holidays style
Savouries from afternoon tea
THE RED ROOM
Tucked away in the hotel, the independently run Red Room by Chef’s Warehouse is a relatively recent addition to Liam Tomlin’s empire – his name is synonymous with inventive cuisine and meticulous flavour. Here, he looks East, with a menu spanning Japan to Vietnam, Korea to China.
Arrive hungry for the seasonal set menus or over order sharing plates from the à la carte option. We tried the winter edition, a five-course journey best enjoyed with a thoughtful beverage pairing available for those wanting the full experience.
It opens with a duet of tuna – one seared, the other a delicate tartare – lifted by ponzu, pickled ginger and a flicker of horseradish heat. Kingklip dumplings (made with a firm, delicately flavoured white fish found in Southern African waters) carry the warm, aromatic flavours of Malaysian otak-otak, before yielding to crisp prawn toast with a glossy red pepper sweet chilli sauce.
Executive chef Luke Barry in the hotel gardens
Private dining room in the main hotel kitchen for the Chef’s Table experience
The dry pan mee is a flavour bomb: hand-cut egg noodles tangled with mince, chilli sambal, peanuts, pak choi and a just-poached egg, ready to be broken and stirred through. From there, the choice has to be either the rich and tender masterstock-braised oxtail with Jerusalem artichoke espuma, or the glazed flat iron steak crowned with furikake and shiitake butter (a close second for dish – of the night).
Dessert was a banana, dark chocolate, miso caramel and spice joy. And then, a playful sign-off: a fortune cookie reading, “The fortune you seek is in another cookie.” Naturally, I went back for seconds.
True to its name, the restaurant is drenched in deep reds, with warm amber light pooling over plush curved banquettes and dark-toned chairs. Dramatic black-and-cream wall art, framed in glossy panels and oversized pendant lamps lend the space a vintage Shanghai-supper-club allure. Intimate and cocoon-like, it’s sleek and celebratory, every detail considered – making the whole experience as much a visual feast as a culinary one.
Choose from more than 60 teas for afternoon service
The Honeysuckle Cottage is ideal for privacy
THE CHEF’S TABLE
Set in a discreet alcove in the heart of The Nellie’s kitchen, this is dining with a front-row seat to the action. “It’s raw and unrehearsed – you’re in the heart of the kitchen, watching service unfold, while one of our junior chefs tells their story through the food,” says chef Luke.
On my evening, chef Lwando Gwatyu and host-sommelier Laz led a hyper-local feast: pillowy vetkoek with apricot jam; roosterkoek with smoked butter; smoked salmon with rocket, spicy mayo and artichoke mustard; silky cauliflower purée with roasted florets, hazelnuts, crispy basil and beetroot gel; and a perfectly cooked beef fillet with potato pavé, roasted baby marrow and sweet carrot purée. Dessert arrived in theatrical style – a burn-away top revealing a chocolate-and-passionfruit treasure trove of curd, frozen yoghurt, mousse, sponge and crémeux.
The hiss of pans, the sharp sizzle of searing, the theatre of table-side plating and the personal attention at every course – it was all part of the show.
HUNGRY FOR MORE…
Step out of the Mount Nelson’s back gate and you’re straight into Kloof Street’s greatest hits. Begin at Our Local, an antique-shop-meets-plant-nursery café perfect for breakfast – think lashings of anchovy butter on toast or a haddock omelette with melty parmesan. Thali, from the much-loved Chef’s Warehouse crew, delivers a dazzling Indian set menu, while Club Kloof turns up the colour (lobster-red walls, Amalfi-yellow bar) with “Italian-ish” small plates. Blondie brings fire-roasted aubergine flatbreads, yellowtail toast and a Nu-disco soundtrack. Even AKJP Studio doubles as a concept store and cool-kid café for after-work drinks. If your appetite survives, then nearby Bree Street’s cafés, coffee bars and fine dining await…
EXPLORE
The Nellie’s concierge – together with Emirates Holidays – can turn any Cape Town stay into an adventure. Hop into the hotel’s vintage pink kombi for a city food safari through Bree Street and Bo-Kaap, or swap four wheels for a wetsuit with a surf lesson in Muizenberg. Dive into the kelp forests on a guided snorkelling trip, or take to the skies in a helicopter for an exhilarating whale-watching flight. Tour Constantia’s vineyards in a gleaming classic car, or for a dash of retro thrill, climb into the hotel’s pink vintage sidecar with “Gazza” from Cape SideCar Adventures at the helm. We cruised the Atlantic Seaboard, wound our way over famed Chapman’s Peak and paused to take in the sweeping views over Noordhoek’s vast, wild beach.
Get in touch
Plan your dream stay in Cape Town with Emirates Holidays – combining seamless flights, private transfers and a luxurious stay at the Mount Nelson. For more information, visit emiratesholidays.com
